Loving Lamu Island

The view from my room of Shela.

So I have been on Lamu Island, in Shela now for 3 1/2 days.  It has been great.  Luckily right from the first morning, I met the only other person staying in my hotel – Nico.  He is a young South African and pretty cool.  He and I hung out until he left this morning and he introduced me to lots of people which was really helpful for gaining a sense of belonging.  It was also helpful to have a male with me most of the time because I  am less hassled and less of a target.  He left by donkey (!) this morning, so I am back to fending for myself for the next two days before I leave.

Nico, Salem, and Fred (the cook) as we eat the dinner that we bought but Fred prepared.

Lamu is hot.  But it is so nice to have no motorized vehicles.  Everything is donkeys, the odd bike or good ol’ ankle express.  The island is strongly muslim so you do not see many women out during the day or dressed in anything less than the full hijab, but tourists are ok to dress western as long as it is respectful.  Supposedly I should not be showing my knees or shoulders, which I am, but I cannot put on more clothes as I would be dying of heat.  As it is I am constantly soaked.

The dinner that Fred made. It was great. That is white bass caught fresh that day and coconut beans which were really tasty.

But I have been walking into Lamu town everyday from Shela, as it has more going on and I have had to come to the internet cafe or to a tailor who made me a dress for $4.  This walk is about 30 minutes and hot in the sun.  You have to do it at low tide because high tide requires you to do part of it inland and sometimes this is not safe.  But for the most part, I enjoy the walk.  Just wish it was cloudy.  I have yet to go to the beach.  I went to a party two nights ago with other non-Kenyans and a whole bunch of Kenyans.  It was pretty fun but the Kenyan men do zero in on the white women.  That is because their women are at home and not allowed out and they think they can charm you.  Might work on a 20 year old, but not this wise 45 year old.  You get tired of them trying to paw you so you end up hanging out with expats to feel less hassled.

My main terrace where I have breakfast every morning.

But I have met a nice Italian/American couple who have been very kind to me.  I shall go  over later tonight.  The Italian man is a construction consultant of sorts and he and I have had some good conversation about building.  He has been living in Lamu for 4 years working with his mother.  It is interesting getting his perspective about building techniques here which I have been quite fascinated to observe and will write about later.  But he has confirmed a lot of my suspicions.

Full moon in Shela

Anyway, must run.  I have become somewhat confused as to where I am at with my postings given that I can’t post everyday, but I will catch up once I have regular internet access.  So there will be  posts out of order.  I still have lots of safari shots to post.  So stay tuned.  Three days until Turkey.  Then the Europe leg begins.

Sunset on the Savannah!