A funky building just down the street from the apartment
Have you ever done so much exercise and walked so long that your feet and legs are just aching and burning and you just want to stop in your tracks and refuse to walk anymore? Which just wouldn’t work as an adult because then you are just standing there in the middle of the street and no one is going to come along and pick you up and carry you. So you keep moving. In short, I finally got my ass outside and wandered about Cologne. Sorry for the vulgarity but it is my blog and I can say what I want!! But I digress.
St. Agnes church enroute to the old city.
It was hard for me to get a handle on Cologne at first because first I was happy to just recharge and hide away, but secondly I am not in the heart of the tourist centre so some of the nuances of the city and its history have to be sought out. Unfortunately Cologne was pretty decimated at the end of World War II. About 90% of the city was saturated with bombs.
A picture of Cologne in 1945 with the famous ancient cathedral somehow spared.
As such, this saddens me although I understand the reason it was done. It is funny though. Beautiful buildings made by man, also destroyed by man. It is our history. Man’s history. I just hate how through territoriality and power man continues to batter its own representations of its achievements and history. Thankfully in general, we seem to be doing our best world wide to protect what buildings remain. Although, as I noted when I was in Croatia, it was as recent as 1992 when an ancient city was destroyed just because it would be good to break the morale of the citizens. So we still tend to do it, and it will always sadden me.
My first view of the Rhine.
So as a result, Cologne is not replete with an abundance of ancient buildings even though it was founded in 38 BC by the Ubii, a Germanic tribe. In 50 AD, the Romans founded Colonia on the Rhine and the city became the provincial capital of Germania Inferior in 85 AD. This later became known as Cologne.
Don't know what building it is but it looks like something that has been restored and protected. Maybe it was part of the old city wall at one point.
So at first when I was wandering around I was seeing mostly modern buildings punctuated from time to time by an old church. As I was wandering around however, there were lots of reminders of the Second World War. Ever since I have been in Germany I have noted that the memory of the Second World War is still very much alive here. Well I guess that’s not too surprising given that it was the epicentre of it. However, even in Britain and when I have been in other European cities have I seen such a memory so present. And this is not a criticism or a judgement, it is just a fact and my own personal experience. Germans who weren’t even alive during the war in their quiet pride hold a general sadness and apology for it even though it was not their personal fault – they weren’t even alive. But they are not trying to pretend it didn’t happen. And even though I believe they too understand the extreme response of the opposing country, they are also sad at the loss of so much history in their own cities, and I can’t blame them.
The door at St. Kunibert - I believe although I might have my churches mixed up
Wandering around though, it also makes me realize that much of what I know about German is from my teachings at school in history around World War I and II. Infact, I do not think there are many Canadians who when meeting a German person or watching anything to do with German, don’t have at least one brief thought about the wars. But as such, my knowledge and understanding of the German people is severely limited. For me, they have always been seen through the screen of that history which is not fair at all. Germany has a rich history which I know very little about. The fact that they were part of the Roman empire, should not even surprise me but I never think of Germany when I think of Roman times. And I will have to do a lot more background reading, but I know through some discussions with Jurgen that there were large losses of German land during the dissolution of Prussia and after both world wars, which despite who you are, would leave a bitter taste. It would be the same if suddenly Canada were reduced to just Ontario, Manitoba and Saskatchewan and we were not to hold some bitterness for the loss of such and extensive country and land.
Guess what story this depicts.
Anyway, just meandering thoughts as I am coming to discover Cologne. More to come and the heads up is that there is more to Cologne that I saw at first glimpse!
St. Kunibert from the front
First of all, thanks for keeping an open mind about the German people and for not pre-judging them.
Being one of those Germans who were born after WWII, I understand that feeling of sadness and apology all too well, but more importantly, I have always felt shame for what happened, which is in itself sad, because like you said, I wasn’t even born then. I had a real hard time watching that emotional but wonderful movie Life is beautiful starring Roberto Benigni.
Anyway, I regress (as you always say)….I enjoyed reading your history comments and I love your pictures, esp. the one of that beautiful tower and that massive door. You know, that 1945 picture of Cologne sadly applies to the many big cities of Germany, incl. my hometown of Hamburg. The destruction was devastating, but it is amazing how the German people have rebuilt the damaged cities throughout the decades.
Sorry, that this entry is soooo long, but I guess, it hits close to home. 🙂
Yes – that is something that has struck me, is the resourcefulness of the German people to protect and restore what was left and to rebuild. I guess that saying that we all use “Lest we forget” applies here as much as everywhere.
I agree that it is sad to hear about the destruction of such beautiful buildings but we must not forget that we had no choice as Germany at the time were trying to take over Europe and we could not just stand by and let that happen. However the Germans of today had nothing to do with that part of their history. Am so enjoying your pictures and notes on the history.
Yes – I mentioned that in the post, that they do understand why, and also I was contemplating on all the other places I have been where different conquering groups have destroyed the enemies structures and infrastructure – it is part of being the conquerer I guess. What man creates, man can destroy. What is amazing with Cologne is that there must have been some order to NOT hit the Cathedral – so there’s precision bombing for you. And I do recall that the Germans did a fine job on London too.
I remember a powerful healing I had in a sweat lodge many years ago. I carried the shame and burden of the devastation my ancestors had committed to the first nations here in Canada. I felt so guilty and ashamed to be of British decent. I cried and cried and cried and asked for forgiveness. I had had no idea I carried such a burden at the time.
Yes I guess every country has something to be ashamed of in their past and it is important – lest we forget!!!