Mum and I hop the train for Sarlat. Sarlat is to the east of Bergerac and the train follows the Dordogne River for the trip. It is really beautiful to see all the old chateaus and farms from the train and some of the little villages that have persisted along the Dordogne for centuries. But all of that paled in comparison to Sarlat. Wow. Sarlat!
Sarlat is amazing. I couldn’t take enough photographs. It was like a Sienna to me. So medieval and in such breathtaking existence from medieval times. Sarlat is one of the most attractive and alluring towns in southwestern France. A gem.
Because modern history has largely passed it by, Sarlat has remained preserved and one of the towns most representative of 14th century France. It is currently on France’s Tentative List for future nomination as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It was restored along with many other sites of historic significance throughout France. The centre of the old town consists of impeccably restored stone buildings and is largely car-free.
Agriculture, chestnuts, cheese, wine, tabacco and foie gras are all major industries in the area. I learned a lot about foie gras being in this area of France as it is ubiquitous. All I had previously known about foie gras was from the viral video taken by PETA about the horrible conditions the birds experience to create this delicacy.
I have tried it and I can’t say it is really to my taste as it is very rich. However it is everywhere as this is the region where it originated from. Now to set some misconceptions straight, the geese and ducks spend 90% of their lives out in the fields running free and eating the field fallow. It is only in their last short period where the feeding to create the foie gras occurs which is less palatable. However the entire bird is used and geese and duck as a meet is far more tasty than chicken and better for you than beef.
Also for all those that quickly attack the foie gras industry for the experience that the birds go through in the latter part of their life, should really also consider veal and chicken. I guess ideally, only the vegetarians, vegans and similar who stay away from all animal products can comment. But if you saw how the majority of chickens live and even those that produce eggs, foie gras production pales in comparison. So enough said there.
However, I love duck and I can find it everywhere here and have taken great advantage of it because it is sooooo tasty.
But back to Sarlat. Mum and I did not have enough time there at all. We were only there for 4 hours. One of the first things we saw was the cathedral. The cathedral was originally the church of Sarlat Abbey. Over the centuries it has been added to and transformed and is now a mix of Roman, Gothic and other styles. Some of the existing building was built in the 1200s. Amazing.
Mum and I loved the small winding streets and the artisans tucked away everywhere provided beautiful artwork for consideration. If I was more settled I would certainly have picked up some of the work as it was exceptional. That is the hard part about artwork. It is not the most transportable.
Sarlat’s traceable past began in the 9th century with the founding of a Benedictine abbey. The town was under the authority of the church but as the abbey grew in power, tensions also grew and finally in 1299 the town was granted liberty from the church.
In medieval times Sarlat grew bigger and richer and became an important market town. Many of the fabulous houses in Sarlat’s old time were built during this time to house the rich merchants. Despite its fortified walls Sarlat suffered greatly during the Hundred Years War.
The end of the 15th century and beginning of the 16th century was again an important time for Sarlat. Another period of building started this time in the Renaissance style.
In the following centuries the fortifications were removed (only a very small section of ramparts still exists) and the defensive ditches filled in.
Following the Revolution in 1789 Sarlat began its new role as a centre of commerce but its distance from main road routes and lack of railway for many years meant that it did not become a successful commercial centre – happily for this could have lead to the destruction of many of its historic buildings in the name of progress!
In 1962 Sarlat became the trial town of a new law called the ‘loi Malraux’ which set about to protect the patrimony of French towns. Money was provided to restore Sarlat’s fine buildings and it now has the highest density of ‘Historic Monuments’ and ‘Classified Monuments’ of any town in France. It is now classified as a ‘Town of Art and History’ and as a ‘Plus Beaux Detour’ – a town meriting a visit for its beauty.
So there you have it. Mum and I wondered, ooh’ed and awed, had a lovely sit down and watched the world go by almost being able to pretend we were living in medieval times.
Thanks for making us/me aware of the beauty and history of Sarlat.
As always, I like your pictures, esp. the one of the statues. The picture of you sqeezing into the tree is both hilarious and priceless. More importantly, it is expected of you to do so. 🙂
BTW: I’m glad that you decide to walk around and behind the buildings, i.e. the Cathedral. Honestly, I think the back side of the Cathedral is more imposing……
Well if there is a tree with a hole, I am like Alice in Wonderland – I have to investigate 🙂